Chikankari

Chikankari is a very delicate and intricate shadow work type of embroidery. Originally embroidery was done using white yarn, the colorless muslins known as tanzeb. But today, georgette, chiffon, cotton and other fine fabrics are also used. From being a decoration, used primarily for decorating clothes, has Chikankari embroidery work in India has now spread to pillow covers, pillow covers, tablecloths and so on.

There are various explanations behind the development of the concept Chikankari. For a version that has the word Chikankari comes from a Persian word Chakin or Chakeen, which means to create delicate patterns on fabric. According to others, it may be a distorted version of Chikeen or Siquin, a coin valuation RS 4, where the work was sold. Another explanation attributes the term to East Bengal language, harassment meant well.

History of Chikankari:

We find references to Indian Chikan work as early as the 3rd century BC. Megasthenes, a Greek traveler, has mentioned the use of flowered muslins of Indians. There are different versions regarding the origin of Chikankari embroidery work in India. It is said that a traveler who was passing through a village in Lucknow stopped and asked about a poor peasant for water. Satisfied with the hospitality of the peasant, the traveler taught him the art of Chikankari that would ensure he would never be hungry on their lives. Lucknow city is the most famous place for Chikankari work. Another explanation credits Noorjahan, queen of Emperor Jahangir, with the introduction of the Chikankari embroidery work in India.

Method for Chikankari Embroidery Work

The mesh used in Chikan Kari work of Lucknow is basically of three categories:

Flat seams (Subtle stitches to close the fabric)

Embossed Stitches (they give a grainy appearance)

Jali Work (Made of wire tension, it gives a delicate net-output)

Indian Chikan work basically consists of a series of processes, namely cutting, stitching, printing, embroidery, washing and finishing. Cutting and stitching is done by the same person. Thereafter, printing is done with wooden blocks dipped in color. After this, embroidery is done, usually by women. The last step in Chikankari embroidery work is washing and finishing, which can take 10 to 12 days and includes bleaching, acid treatment, rigid and ironing. The most common motif used in Chikan Kari work of Lucknow is that climbers. Floral motifs, which are used either in whole garment or in corners, including jasmine, rose, flowering stems, lotus, etc.