Milan fashion week used to be so simple. It did sexy. Molto sexy. Revealing, attention-seeking frocks of the it-does-what-it-says-on-the-tin, hormone-charging variety. Some seasons it was sexy-boho, sometimes it was fierce-sexy, sometimes it was Lolita-sexy, but – in the same way that Cherry Coke and Diet Coke are still Coca-Cola – the trends stayed true to the core brand. Sexy.
The first sign that this season was going to be different came on Thursday night, at Prada. Not the lust-stifling A-line skirts, or the nerdy glasses – Miuccia Prada has never marched to the beat of the Milanese fashion drum, and has an elegant-geek aesthetic all of her own – but in the way each dress was given an outsize bosom, either with exaggerated darting or with a quadruple layer of lingerie-style ribbon frilling. There is nothing new in a bit of sex in a Prada show, of course. Miuccia may not do sexy in the bone-headed way most other Milanese fashion designers do, but she often plays with notions of sex appeal. This time, however, she wasn't dabbling, she was parodying. In her own way, she was taking the mickey out of our culture's dogged obsession with one type of beauty.
Backstage afterwards, she told fashion editors that the show was about how the ideal of sexy is becoming a narrower one, and about "the cliches that women can't seem to give up". At one point she said: "As a former feminist, I find it hard to understand this behaviour." Did you just call yourself a former feminist, another British fashion editor asked. She shrugged and said she didn't know any more. "I feel like no one is having this debate." She sounded frustrated. They are having this debate, of course – although perhaps not so much in Italy.
Source : http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/mar/01/new-cool-milan-fashion
The first sign that this season was going to be different came on Thursday night, at Prada. Not the lust-stifling A-line skirts, or the nerdy glasses – Miuccia Prada has never marched to the beat of the Milanese fashion drum, and has an elegant-geek aesthetic all of her own – but in the way each dress was given an outsize bosom, either with exaggerated darting or with a quadruple layer of lingerie-style ribbon frilling. There is nothing new in a bit of sex in a Prada show, of course. Miuccia may not do sexy in the bone-headed way most other Milanese fashion designers do, but she often plays with notions of sex appeal. This time, however, she wasn't dabbling, she was parodying. In her own way, she was taking the mickey out of our culture's dogged obsession with one type of beauty.
Backstage afterwards, she told fashion editors that the show was about how the ideal of sexy is becoming a narrower one, and about "the cliches that women can't seem to give up". At one point she said: "As a former feminist, I find it hard to understand this behaviour." Did you just call yourself a former feminist, another British fashion editor asked. She shrugged and said she didn't know any more. "I feel like no one is having this debate." She sounded frustrated. They are having this debate, of course – although perhaps not so much in Italy.
Source : http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/mar/01/new-cool-milan-fashion
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